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5 Days in Seoul — Palaces, Street Food & Cafe Culture

Myeongdong → Anguk → Bukchon → Nami Island → DMZ → Hongdae. Ancient palaces and hanok villages by day, Korean BBQ and rooftop cafes by night. Here's everything we did and what I'd do differently.

Overview

Trip Details
Dates Aug 9 – 13, 2023
Duration 5 days
Route Singapore → Seoul → Nami Island (day trip) → DMZ (day trip) → Singapore
Flight T-way Air TW172 (SIN→ICN) / TW171 (ICN→SIN)
Hotel Nine Tree Hotel Myeongdong · 4 nights
Season Summer (hot and humid, 30°C+)

Seoul packs a remarkable amount into a small city. You can walk from a 600-year-old palace to a specialty cafe in fifteen minutes, then take a short subway ride to a rooftop hanok village serving castella cakes in a bamboo forest. It's a city that layers history and modernity without apology — and the food, from cheap kalguksu noodle shops to premium Korean BBQ, is reason enough to come.

We used Myeongdong as our base for the entire trip, which turned out to be the right call. It's central, walkable to most of the old city, and a fifteen-minute subway ride from almost everything else. Two day trips broke up the Seoul days nicely — Nami Island for the scenic tree-lined paths, and the DMZ for one of the most sobering and fascinating experiences you can have near Seoul.

Is This Trip For You?

If you nod to most of these, keep reading
You want to explore palaces, hanok villages, and Buddhist temples
You're serious about food — Korean BBQ, cold noodles, fried chicken
You're into specialty cafe culture (Seoul's scene is world-class)
You want a short-haul trip from Singapore with no jet lag
You're curious about the Korean War and the DMZ
You can handle 30°C+ humidity in summer

Route Map

Click on any marker to see what we did in each area.

View all pins on Google Maps Download KML file

All hotels, restaurants, and attractions from this trip, organized by area. Import the KML into Google My Maps to view all pins. Syncs to your Google Maps app under Saved → Maps.

Seoul

Seoul 4 nights · Nine Tree Hotel Myeongdong

Nine Tree Hotel Myeongdong is a solid base. Myeongdong itself is walkable to Changdeokgung, Insadong, Jogyesa Temple, and the Cheonggyecheon stream, and the subway puts you anywhere else in minutes. The area buzzes with street food stalls at night, which is either great or annoying depending on your mood — we liked it.

Day 1 — Aug 9 (Wed)
Arrival, Palaces & Hanok Cafes
Took the 1:55am flight TW172 from Singapore, arrived Incheon at 9:35am. Checked into Nine Tree Hotel and headed straight to lunch at Myeongdong Kyoja — a no-frills Seoul institution. Kalguksu (chopped noodle soup), bibimguksu (spicy cold noodles), and mandu dumplings. Cheap and genuinely incredible; the broth alone justifies the trip.

Afternoon: Changdeokgung Palace and the Secret Garden tour at 2:30pm (~70 min guided). Book the English tour online — tickets are limited. After the palace, walked to Cafe Onion Anguk, a restored hanok (traditional Korean house dating to the 14th century) now serving excellent coffee and their signature pandoro bread. One of the most atmospheric cafes I've been to.

Spent the rest of the evening in Ikseondong Hanok Village, a cluster of trendy cafes and shops inside traditional buildings: Cheong Su Dang for castella cakes in a bamboo-forest hanok, Nakwon Station for retro train station vibes, Donut Jungsu for rooftop views and matcha donuts, Ikseon Goro for their purpleberry ice cream, and Cheese Industry for cheese cakes. Could easily spend three hours here.

Ended the night with a walk through Unhyeongung Palace, down Insadong Cultural Street (the Ssamzigil complex has rooftop cafes and DIY craft stalls), past Jogyesa Temple (open 24 hours — the main temple of Korean Buddhism), and along the Cheonggyecheon stream (a revived urban waterway with walkways and lit bridges, also 24h).
Arrival Palace Hanok Cafes Street Walk
Day 2 — Aug 10 (Thu)
Gyeongbokgung, Bukchon & Korean BBQ
Breakfast at Isaac Toast & Coffee — the bulgogi toast and bacon are both excellent, and the price is absurdly low. Seoul's equivalent of a hawker breakfast.

Then queued at London Bagel Museum Anguk. Expect two hours. Whether that's worth it is a personal call (more on this in the hindsight section), but the Maple Pecan, Potato Cheese, and Mushroom Truffle Soup bagels are very good. Cafe Layered Bukchon nearby is easier — the Spring Onion Cream Cheese Scone and Einspanner coffee are worth stopping for.

Gyeongbokgung Palace at 9am. Don't miss the changing of the royal guards at 10am and 2pm — a centuries-old Joseon Dynasty tradition, performed in full ceremonial costume. Striking.

Lunch at Tosokchon Samgyetang for ginseng chicken soup. A Seoul institution — the chicken comes stuffed with rice and ginseng, simmered for hours in a rich broth. Perfect even in summer heat.

At 1pm, joined the Cheongwadae (Blue House) tour — the former presidential residence, recently opened to the public. Book online in advance. It's a fascinating look at a building Koreans couldn't enter for decades.

Afternoon in Bukchon Hanok Village: Baek In-je's House (a Japanese colonial era hanok museum) and Cha-teul, a traditional teahouse set in an old courtyard. Quieter and more residential than Ikseondong — a different feel.

Dinner at Wangbijip Myeongdong for Korean BBQ — the assorted beef platter is the move, premium beef and pork belly grilled tableside. One of the best BBQ meals of the trip. Followed by the Nanta Show at 8pm, a 90-minute non-verbal comedy cooking show that's more fun than it sounds.
Palace Cafes Korean BBQ Nanta Show
Day 3 — Aug 11 (Fri)
Nami Island Day Trip
Full day outside Seoul. Nami Island is the headliner — the scenic tree-lined paths made famous by the Korean drama "Winter Sonata." In summer the trees are full and the island is lush green; in autumn the colours are spectacular. It's genuinely beautiful and not as touristy as expected once you get off the main path.

Combined the Nami trip with Petite France, a French-themed cultural village nearby (quirky but charming), and the Garden of Morning Calm — a beautifully landscaped garden that rewards a slow wander. All three are bookable as a combined day trip through Klook, or self-arranged by train and bus.
Day Trip Nami Island Gardens
Day 4 — Aug 12 (Sat)
DMZ Tour & Gwangjang Market Night
Early start: DMZ Tour from 7:30am to 2pm. The tour covers Imjingak Park, the Bridge of Freedom, the Third Tunnel (dug by North Korea in the 1970s), and Dora Observatory where you can see into North Korea on a clear day. Bring your passport — it's required. One note: the food stop is very early in the day, so bring your own lunch. Had soybean ice cream at one of the stops. It's a sobering, eye-opening experience; the Third Tunnel especially is hard to forget.

Back in Seoul by early afternoon, spent time in Myeongdong then did a proper Korean fried chicken tasting — BHC and Kyochon both have branches nearby. Half and half (half original, half spicy), honey chicken, garlic soy. Fried chicken in Korea is genuinely a different thing to anywhere else.

Checked out Dongdaemun Market in the evening (eight floors of textiles — interesting to wander even if you're not buying fabric). Dinner at Woo Lae Oak, a top restaurant for Pyeongyang-style cold noodles — icy buckwheat noodles with a clean, slightly tangy broth. One of those dishes you won't find done better anywhere.

Ended at Gwangjang Market, Korea's oldest market (est. 1905) for a late evening browse. Bibimbap at stall 11 and doughnut twists from the street stalls. Go in the afternoon or evening — mornings are for the vendors setting up.
DMZ Fried Chicken Cold Noodles Night Market
Day 5 — Aug 13 (Sun)
Hongdae & Home
Final morning breakfast at Eggdrop — the Avo Holic (avocado and egg toast), Bacon Double Cheese, and scrambled egg toasts are all excellent. Another Seoul breakfast chain that punches well above its price.

Spent the rest of the morning exploring Hongdae, Seoul's university district — street art, independent shops, buskers, and a younger energy than the palace districts. Worth a couple of hours before heading to the airport. Left for Incheon at 2:30pm, flight TW171 back to Singapore at 7pm.
Breakfast Hongdae Departure

What I'd Do Differently

London Bagel Museum — decide if it's worth your morning

The two-hour queue is real. The bagels are good — genuinely good — but whether they're worth sacrificing a Seoul morning is a personal call. If you're travelling with people who'd rather be doing other things, it's probably not worth it. Go early (before 9am) to minimise the wait, or come on a weekday.

Book Changdeokgung Secret Garden in advance

English-guided tours are limited to specific time slots and sell out. Book online before your trip, not on the day. The Secret Garden is the highlight of the palace complex — the main grounds are fine, but the garden is what makes the visit.

Gwangjang Market — go in the afternoon or evening

Mornings are when stall holders are prepping and setting up. The full energy of the market doesn't kick in until late afternoon. Plan accordingly — it's a much better experience after 4pm.

DMZ tour — bring your own lunch

The scheduled food stop happens very early in the tour, and the options are limited. Pack something from a convenience store the night before. Also book 1–2 weeks ahead — popular time slots fill up fast and passport details need to be submitted in advance.

Booking Guide

Seoul is largely walkable and improvisation-friendly, but a handful of things need advance booking:

Item Notes
Changdeokgung Secret Garden Book online. English tours are limited to specific time slots. Don't leave this to the day.
Cheongwadae Blue House Book online in advance. Recently opened to the public — passport required.
DMZ Tour Book through a tour operator 1–2 weeks ahead. Passport details required. Book early — popular tours sell out.
Nami Island Day Trip Book via Klook or self-arrange (train + ferry). No strict advance requirement but Klook packages are convenient.
Nanta Show Book online 1 week ahead. Multiple showtimes; the 8pm slot works well after dinner.
Noryangjin Fish Market No booking needed, just show up. If you go, head to Daewon Fishery L2-35/36 for king crab.
Note on the Blue House: Cheongwadae only opened to the public in 2022 after decades of restricted access. Tours are free but require online registration. It's a fascinating slice of Korean modern history — worth fitting in.

Planning Timeline

When What to Do
3–4 months before Book flights. T-way Air flies direct Singapore–Incheon; also look at Korean Air, Asiana, Scoot, and Jeju Air for options.
2 months before Book hotel. Myeongdong fills up, especially on weekends and public holidays. Lock this in early.
1 month before Book the DMZ tour (passport details needed), Nanta Show, and Changdeokgung Secret Garden English tour.
1 week before Download Naver Maps offline (Google Maps is limited in Korea). Research T-money card top-up. Check DMZ tour requirements.

Other Places to Consider

If you have extra days or are planning a return trip:

Busan
Best forBeaches, Jagalchi fish market, Gamcheon Culture Village
Best seasonSummer (beaches) or autumn
Getting there2.5h by KTX from Seoul

Korea's second city and a completely different vibe. Rocky coastline, a massive fish market where you pick live seafood and have it cooked upstairs, and the colourful Gamcheon Culture Village painted into a hillside. Worth 2–3 nights if extending the trip.

Jeju Island
Best forVolcanic landscape, black pork, hallabong oranges
Best seasonSpring (cherry blossoms) or autumn
Getting there1h flight from Seoul

Korea's volcanic island off the south coast. The black pork BBQ is a local obsession, hallabong citrus is excellent, and the crater lake at Hallasan is worth the hike. A rental car is the best way to explore.

Jeonju
Best forBirthplace of bibimbap, hanok village, traditional food
Best seasonYear-round
Getting there1.5h by KTX from Seoul

The food capital of Korea. Bibimbap originated here, and Jeonju's version — in a hot stone bowl with the best local ingredients — is in another league. The hanok village is one of the most intact in Korea, and far less touristy than Bukchon.

Gangnam & Itaewon
Best forShopping, international dining, nightlife
Best seasonYear-round
Getting there20–30 min subway from Myeongdong

If you have an extra half-day in Seoul, Gangnam is worth exploring beyond the song reference — high-end shopping, great restaurants, and a different energy to the old city. Itaewon has the best international food scene in Seoul.

Photos

Click any photo to view full-size. (Photos coming soon!)

What to Eat

Seoul's food scene is one of the best in Asia — and the range is extraordinary. Here's what to prioritise, split across meals and cafes:

Seoul Must-Eats
KalguksuMyeongdong Kyoja — chopped noodle soup, the benchmark
SamgyetangTosokchon — ginseng chicken soup, a Seoul institution
Korean BBQWangbijip — premium beef and pork belly, assorted platter
Pyeongyang Cold NoodlesWoo Lae Oak — icy buckwheat noodles, clean and precise
Fried ChickenBHC or Kyochon — half and half is the move
BibimbapGwangjang Market stall 11 — go in the evening
Street ToastIsaac Toast or Eggdrop — cheap, filling, surprisingly good
Cafe Culture Must-Tries
Cafe Onion AngukPandoro bread in a restored 14th-century hanok
London Bagel MuseumMaple Pecan, Potato Cheese — expect a 2hr queue
Cafe Layered BukchonSpring Onion Cream Cheese Scone + Einspanner coffee
Cheong Su DangCastella cakes in a bamboo-forest hanok, Ikseondong
Donut JungsuBest rooftop in Ikseondong, try the matcha donuts
Ikseon GoroPurpleberry ice cream — more interesting than it sounds
Cheese IndustryBrie cheese cake and specialty drinks
General rule: Don't skip convenience store snacks — Korean CU and GS25 are legitimately good for triangle kimbap, hot drinks, and ramyeon cups. Also: Korean fried chicken is a different food group from what you've had elsewhere. Budget at least one dedicated session for it.

Quick Tips


Five days in Seoul barely scratches the surface — the cafe rabbit holes alone could fill another trip. Hope this helps with planning. Feel free to reach out if you have questions.